Albania Atlas

Cada condado, cada costa, cada siglo

The Albania Atlas
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A table of home cooking seen from above: a round filo pie, a baked dish, white cheese, tomatoes, olives, bread and wine

Albanian Culture

Language, food, wine, music, religion, custom and the diaspora.

En lenguaje claro

This section is about how people in Albania live, speak, eat and celebrate.

Gastronomía

Gastronomía

Byrek

The everyday Albanian pie: hand-stretched pastry layered with cheese, spinach, leek, meat or tomato.

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Gastronomía

Tavë Kosi

Lamb baked under a set custard of yoghurt, egg and a little flour — the dish most often named as Albania's national one.

Gastronomía

Fërgesë

Peppers and tomato cooked down with white cheese, sometimes with liver — a Tirana staple.

Gastronomía

Flija

Concentric crepe layers built up one at a time under a hot metal lid — a northern highland dish that takes hours.

Gastronomía

Qofte

Flattened meatballs of beef or lamb with onion and mint, grilled over charcoal or fried.

Gastronomía

Japrak

Vine leaves in summer, pickled cabbage in winter, rolled around rice and meat.

Gastronomía

Trileçe

A sponge soaked in three milks under a caramel top — ubiquitous in Albanian cafés.

Gastronomía

Ballokume

A dense maize-flour biscuit from Elbasan, made for Summer Day on 14 March.

Gastronomía

Gliko

Whole fruit or peel boiled slowly in syrup and served by the spoonful to guests.

Gastronomía

Tarator

Chilled yoghurt with cucumber, garlic, walnut and dill — the standard Albanian summer starter.

Gastronomía

Petulla

Pieces of leavened dough fried until puffed, eaten with cheese, jam or honey.

Gastronomía

Paçe

A thick head-and-trotter soup eaten early in the morning, especially in winter.

Gastronomía

Albanian Olive Oil

Oil from Kalinjot, Kokërrmadh and other local varieties, chiefly from Vlorë, Fier and Berat.

Vino y bebidas

Bebida

Raki

Home-distilled grape or plum spirit, offered to guests and made in most rural households.

Bebida

Albanian Wine

A wine culture running back to Illyrian times, rebuilt after 1990 around native grapes.

Bebida

Kallmet

A dark northern red grape from the Lezhë–Shkodër zone, related to Hungary's Kadarka.

Bebida

Mountain Tea

Çaj mali — dried Sideritis flowers gathered on high slopes and drunk all winter.

Bebida

Albanian Coffee Culture

Albania has among the highest densities of coffee bars in Europe; the meeting is the point, not the drink.

Temas

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The Albanian Language

An independent branch of the Indo-European family with no close living relative, written in a 36-letter Latin alphabet.

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Besa

The customary obligation of keeping one's word — the principle behind Albania's wartime sheltering of Jewish refugees.

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Religion in Albania

Four historic communities — Sunni, Bektashi, Orthodox and Catholic — and a state that banned all of them from 1967 to 1990.

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The Bektashi Order

A Sufi order whose world headquarters has been in Tirana since 1925, with a major shrine on Mount Tomorr.

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The Albanian Alphabet

Thirty-six letters agreed at the Congress of Monastir in 1908, replacing competing Arabic, Greek and Latin scripts.

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The Arbëresh

Albanian-speaking communities in southern Italy, settled from the 15th century and still speaking an archaic Tosk.

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The Albanian Diaspora

More Albanians may live outside the country than in it — chiefly in Italy, Greece, Germany, Switzerland, the UK and the US.

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Albanian Cuisine

Mediterranean at the coast, Balkan and Ottoman inland, dairy-heavy in the mountains.

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Basic Albanian Phrases

The forty or so words and phrases that cover most day-to-day exchanges for a visitor.

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Albanian Culture

A culture shaped by mountain isolation, five centuries of Ottoman rule, and fifty years of enforced separation.

Asunto · Vlorë

Sazan Island

Albania's largest island: a former Italian and then Soviet-era military base at the mouth of the Bay of Vlorë.

Asunto · Durrës

Cape of Rodon

A low cape north of Durrës holding Skanderbeg's sea castle and the church of St Anthony.

Asunto · Vlorë

The Albanian Riviera

The 120 km of Ionian coast between the Llogara pass and Sarandë, where the Ceraunian mountains fall straight into the sea.

Asunto · Vlorë

Zvërnec Island

A cypress-covered island in the Narta lagoon holding a 13th–14th-century Orthodox monastery.

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The History of Albania

Illyrian kingdoms, Roman roads, five Ottoman centuries, twenty-eight years of independence, forty-six years of the strictest…

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The Sigurimi

The Directorate of State Security: the secret police of communist Albania, and the institution the House of Leaves museum was…

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The Albanian Economy

An upper-middle-income economy of roughly $30 billion, led by services and tourism, with remittances and construction close…

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The Via Egnatia

Rome's road from the Adriatic to Byzantium, which began at Durrës and Apollonia.

Asunto · Vlorë

Karaburun Peninsula

Albania's largest uninhabited peninsula, closed to the public for most of the 20th century and now a marine park.

Asunto · Korçë

Drilon Springs

Spring-fed canals and plane trees on the Ohrid shore east of Pogradec.