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These pages explain the basics — how the country is organised, how to read place names, why there are so many bunkers, and what the Kanun was.

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Four inscriptions: Butrint, the historic centres of Berat and Gjirokastra, the Ohrid region, and the primeval beech forests.

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About 170,000 concrete domes, built by a state that had fallen out with every possible ally.

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The 2023 census recorded a resident population far below the 2011 count — the clearest measure of three decades of emigration.

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Twenty-eight thousand square kilometres, seventy per cent of it hills and mountains, and a coast that changes character halfway…

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Illyrians, Greek colonists and Rome, layered on the same coastline for a thousand years.

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A body of customary law that governed the northern highlands for centuries — and the part of it that everyone has heard of.

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Four communities, centuries of coexistence, twenty-three years of total prohibition, and a census question nobody agrees about.