The Albanian Riviera: A Practical Guide

The shape of the coast

The Riviera runs from the Llogara pass in the north to Sarandë in the south. The Ceraunian mountains come down almost to the water, so the settlements are either old villages high on the slope or newer strips down at sea level, often with the same name. Dhërmi village and Dhërmi beach are twenty minutes apart by road.

The shore is pebble, not sand. Water clarity is the reason people come; the trade-off is that entering the water barefoot is uncomfortable in places and swim shoes are common.

North to south, in order

• Palasë — first beach below the pass, wide, comparatively quiet.
• Dhërmi and Drymades — the longest developed strip, and the Riviera's nightlife centre.
• Gjipe — canyon beach, 25–30 minutes on foot or by boat; no road.
• Jal — two coves below Vuno, a long-standing camping spot.
• Himarë — the largest town on the coast, with an old hill village above it.
• Livadhi and Potami — Himarë's own beaches.
• Porto Palermo — sheltered bay with Ali Pasha's triangular fortress.
• Qeparo — half-empty upper village, quiet shingle bay below.
• Borsh — about 7 km, the longest beach on the coast, behind a very large olive grove.
• Lukovë, Bunec, Krorëz — small coves reached by steep side roads.
• Sarandë — the largest town, the Corfu ferry, and the base for Butrint and Ksamil.
• Ksamil — the shallowest, clearest and most crowded water in the country.

Where to base yourself

Himarë is the best compromise if you want one base: it has a town, restaurants that stay open, buses, and beaches within walking distance. Sarandë is right if your trip includes Butrint, Ksamil and the Corfu ferry. Dhërmi suits people who want the developed strip. Qeparo, Borsh and Lukovë suit people who want to be left alone.

Staying inland at Gjirokastër and driving down for days at the beach is a genuinely underrated option, and much cheaper in August.

The road

The SH8 is the only through route. It is two lanes, with hairpins on the Llogara descent, and in July and August it carries far more traffic than it was built for. Allow much longer than a map suggests — Vlorë to Sarandë is about 120 km and can take three hours or more in high season.

Parking at the popular beaches is paid and fills early. Buses run the coast in summer but not frequently; furgons are more common than scheduled coaches.

Water and infrastructure

Rapid construction has outpaced water and wastewater capacity in parts of the Riviera, and supply interruptions during August are common enough to ask about when booking. This is a documented planning issue rather than an occasional inconvenience.