Southern Albania

What the south has that the north does not

The south holds both of Albania's UNESCO-listed towns, its most important archaeological sites, its warmest and longest beach season, and its wild river. It is also easier to travel in: the roads are better and the distances between attractions are shorter.

A workable route

• Gjirokastër — two nights; castle, old bazaar, Antigonea.
• Blue Eye and Sarandë — the karst spring, then the coast.
• Butrint and Ksamil — a half day at the ruins, an afternoon in the water.
• North up the Riviera — Borsh, Qeparo, Himarë, Dhërmi.
• Llogara and Vlorë — the pass, then the city where independence was declared.
• Inland to Berat — castle quarter, Osum canyon, wineries.
• Optionally Përmet and the Vjosa — thermal springs at Bënjë, the Lengarica canyon.

Berat and Gjirokastër

They are often treated as interchangeable and are not. Berat is white, horizontal, and built around a river; its castle is still inhabited. Gjirokastër is grey, vertical, and built of stone and slate; its castle is a fortress rather than a neighbourhood. If you can only do one, the comparison page sets out the trade-off.

The Vjosa

The Vjosa runs about 190 km through Albania without a dam on its main channel, which makes it one of the last large free-flowing rivers in Europe. It was declared a wild river national park in March 2023. Përmet and Këlcyrë are the usual bases.