Eating in Albania

The dishes to order first

• Byrek — the everyday filo pie; cheese, spinach or leek.
• Tavë kosi — lamb baked under set yoghurt; the dish most often called national.
• Fërgesë — peppers, tomato and white cheese, with or without liver.
• Qofte — grilled or fried meatballs; the Korçë fried version is distinct.
• Tarator — cold yoghurt, cucumber and walnut soup, in summer.
• Flija — layered pancake from the northern highlands, usually made to order.
• Trileçe — three-milk cake, on every café menu.

Where the regions differ

The coast is Mediterranean: fish, olive oil, tomatoes, peppers. Korçë and the south-east are heavier and more Balkan, with lakror pies, fried qofte and the country's oldest brewery. The northern highlands are dairy-and-maize country — flija, cheese, cornbread. Elbasan gives its name to tavë Elbasani and to ballokume biscuits.

Practical notes

Lunch is the main meal and restaurant kitchens often close between lunch and dinner. Raki will be offered; refusing is fine but unusual. Vegetarians do well on byrek, fërgesë, tarator, grilled vegetables and cheese; strict vegans have a harder time outside Tirana.

Tap water is generally chlorinated and drinkable in cities; bottled water is what most people drink and is cheap.