Berat
The 'city of a thousand windows': an Ottoman hill town under a still-inhabited castle, UNESCO-listed since 2008.
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Berat and Gjirokastër are both old towns protected by UNESCO. Berat is white with lots of windows, beside a river. Gjirokastër is grey stone on a steep mountainside, under a huge castle.
Berat and Gjirokastër are both old towns protected by UNESCO. Berat is white with lots of windows, beside a river. Gjirokastër is grey stone on a steep mountainside, under a huge castle.
| Berat | Gjirokastër | |
|---|---|---|
| Look | White plaster, terracotta roofs, many windows | Grey stone walls and silver slate roofs |
| Site | Two quarters facing each other across the Osum | One steep slope below a ridge castle |
| Castle | Still inhabited; around 20 churches inside | A very large fortress, not a neighbourhood |
| Museums | Onufri icon museum; ethnographic house | Skenduli and Zekate houses; castle armoury; Kadare's house |
| Landscape | Osum canyon, Mount Tomorr, vineyards | Drino valley, Antigonea, Blue Eye, the Vjosa |
| Walking | Steep cobbles in the castle quarter | Steeper; the bazaar street is a climb |
| Combines with | Tirana, Apollonia, the Osum canyon | Sarandë, Butrint, Përmet, the Riviera |
| UNESCO | Inscribed 2008 | Inscribed 2005 |
Berat is the softer, greener and easier of the two, and the inhabited castle is genuinely unusual — it is a neighbourhood with a fortress wall around it.
Gjirokastër is harder, more monumental and more atmospheric, and its tower houses are the better architecture. It also sits on the route south to Sarandë and the Riviera.
If you are driving the country you can and should do both — they are about three hours apart. If you must choose, choose Berat for a first trip and Gjirokastër if you already know you like Ottoman domestic architecture.
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The 'city of a thousand windows': an Ottoman hill town under a still-inhabited castle, UNESCO-listed since 2008.
The 'stone city': slate-roofed tower houses on a steep slope beneath one of the Balkans' largest castles.
Two stone cities, the country's best archaeology, a wild river, and the Riviera behind it.
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